Shiseido have a range of technological developments and are increasingly researching common problems. However, instead of finding things to aid the problems they are in fact attempting to find the underlying cause of the issue and the solution. Take this example of rough skin.
What is rough skin?
Rough skin, a frequently encountered skin problem in women, is defined as “a condition in which the dried stratum corneum on the skin surface causes a rough skin texture and eventually scaling”. Rough skin is generally treated by supplementing it with what it lacks: moisturizing components or intercellular lipid. However, a solution to tackle the fundamental factor that causes rough skin is yet to be discovered. Shiseido has been conducting studies to elucidate the mostly unknown mechanism of development of rough skin and to develop new ingredients with superior efficacies.
Discovery of new rough skin mechanism
Shiseido discovered that the first reaction that triggers the development of rough skin occurs in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. Shiseido has also identified the key player in this first reaction, namely, UPA protein present in the stratum corneum. UPA protein is activated by dryness or other stresses, such as physical damage, and the damage produced by it is subsequently transferred from the stratum corneum into the deeper epidermis to damage the entire epidermis and triggers the development of rough skin.
Development of the novel active ingredient “SEBLAEN(R)”
Based on the newly gained knowledge, Shiseido started a new study on rough skin in which an active ingredient that suppresses activation of UPA protein in the stratum corneum of the skin and shows excellent efficacy against rough skin was successfully developed. The ingredient was named “SEBLAEN(R)” (t-cycloamino acid methylamide derivative). SEBLAEN(R) was patented in Japan, the U.S, EU, Taiwan and Korea, and was approved by the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare of Japan as an active ingredient of a quasi-drug for the treatment of rough/chapped skin in 2004.
Improvement of rough skin by CE care
A process called “epidermal turnover” occurs continually in the epidermis; newly generated cells in the basal layer move upward to the spinous cell layer, granular layer, stratum corneum, and then slough off as dead skin cells. The stratum corneum has important functions, including the “water holding function” to maintain adequate skin moisture and the “barrier function” to prevent water evaporation from the skin and also prevent the entry into the skin of foreign substances from the environment. In cases with rough skin, the epidermal turnover becomes irregular, resulting in impaired function of the stratum corneum.
The cornified envelope (CE) is a membrane-like structure of proteins that covers corneocytes. It plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. Using a proprietary CE maturity evaluation method, Shiseido identified a large amount of immature CE on facial skin with impaired barrier function, revealing the association between maturation of the CE and the barrier function of the stratum corneum, which are impaired in rough skin.
Shiseido developed an ingredient that acts on the stratum corneum and promotes CE maturation. Continuous use of a skin cream containing this ingredient promotes CE maturation, improves the skin barrier function and prevents the development of rough skin.
They have also been developing technology for wrinkles…. this is a brilliant alternative to botox!
Wrinkle prevention
Shiseido has been making efforts to identify the cause of wrinkles and sagging of the skin associated with aging by various approaches.
Hyaluronic acid is known to help in maintenance of the skin moisture. Shiseido’s study showed that “vitamin A” promoted the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and reduced wrinkles in humans. Based on theses findings, we keep trying to elucidate the mechanism of wrinkle improvement and exploring active ingredients with further efficacies. Shiseido is also investigating the network structure of collagen fibers and elastin fibers in the dermis. Active ingredients to inhibit gelatinase are under development focusing on the fact that wrinkles can be prevented by inhibiting gelatinase, an enzyme that changes the network structure.
Wrinkle-inducing angiogenesis
Shiseido identified a new mechanism in which inflammatory cells releasing the enzyme “elastase” that damages the elastin fibers of the dermis are transferred to the skin through blood vessels generated after exposure to UV rays, the so-called “wrinkle-inducing angiogenesis” to cause wrinkles, and developed “chlorella extract,” a drug to suppress the “wrinkle-inducing angiogenesis”.
Looking deeper into the skin
Until recently, a piece of skin was generally cut off and stained in order to examine the condition of the inner skin. Such a procedure, however, has limited application as it is invasive and painful.
On the other hand, advanced skin examination technique using “light” enables direct evaluation of the structure and condition of the inner skin with no need for skin sample collection.
With this technique, the inner skin condition/structure under the effect of UV rays and aging phenomena can be better understood. The technique can also be applied to the development of effective drugs for skin roughness, wrinkles and skin whitening.
- Observation of epidermal cells/melanin at high-resolution -
A real-time horizontal skin section can be visualized by using confocal microscopy, which allows direct evaluation of the condition of the epidermal cells and melanin. The three – dimensional inner skin structure can be recreated based on stack images taken from various depths of the skin layer.
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Very scientific and perhaps slightly overwhelming, however, it is great information for the development of our technology. The above provides intelligence and language that could be used when describing out range.
More information is available at: http://www.shiseido.co.jp/e/ken/future/futr_hrt.htm
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